Nick Dombrowski started the company about ten years ago, after working for a stint in the mill, keyboard and console departments of Organ Supply Company in Erie, Pennsylvania. “It’s a company that supplies organ builders and repair companies with anything and everything to build and repair pipe organs,” he says.

He worked there part-time and during breaks from college at Gannon University, where he was pursuing a degree in theology. He credits his woodworking and machine shop classes in high school, as well as his work at Organ Supply, for the majority of his formal woodworking education. That, and a couple of week-long classes under the tutelage of Ernie Conover, learning hand tool joinery and spindle turning.

Nick’s father Jeff, who is partial owner of Lake Erie Toolworks, joined his son’s company early on to help guide its sales, marketing and website activities, while Nick focuses on the design, development and engineering side of the business.

“After pursuing a bachelor’s degree in pre-med, getting married, earning an MBA and raising three children, I somehow still managed to keep plugging away with the occasional woodworking project while I worked my normal day job,” Jeff says.

Those woodworking interests were fostered by Jeff’s father — a machinist and “mechanical wizard handyman type” who showed him the ropes growing up. But Jeff also benefited from four years of carpentry and cabinetmaking classes while attending a technical high school.

These days, Jeff works full-time for a large global technology company, where he’s been involved with sales, marketing, engineering and support. His portfolio of experiences are helping to guide Lake Erie’s business efforts when Jeff helps out on evenings and weekends.

Also in the front office from day to day, Nick’s wife, Rachel, manages its bookkeeping and office duties. “We’re a small family business with big plans for the future,” Jeff says.

Aside from its somewhat unorthodox chain of command, another interesting point of note about Lake Erie Toolworks is its unique line of wooden clamping products. One might say, it’s a mix of “old-school tradition” made by modern manufacturing methods for today’s woodworker. The company builds wooden vise screws, wagon and shoulder vise kits and Moxon Vises — with their major components made of hard maple rather than steel.

Nick reflects that, initially, he wanted Lake Erie Toolworks to manufacture workbenches. But, space and equipment limitations changed that action plan for the fledgling company. Instead, after surveying the market and determining that there weren’t enough “quality” vises on the market, Nick decided to focus on workbench hardware. The decision was both pragmatic and romantic, Nick admits, reflecting back on his shop time at Organ Supply.

“Each woodworker (there) had an old Christiansen workbench with large wooden vise screws,” Nick says. “I fell in love with the look and feel of them.”

So, Nick spent about six months experimenting with CNC equipment, as well as building some custom machinery that would enable him to make wood vise and nut components. It also helped that his post-theology graduate work had shifted from religious studies into mechanical engineering, where he subsequently has earned a master’s degree.

Still, one might wonder, why make workbench vises out of wood? It would seem that metal would make a longer-lasting vise. But, the company offers a “white paper” on its website advocating why hard maple is an excellent mechanical choice for vise applications. For one, it offers superior shear strength along the grain over other woods, and shear strength has the largest impact on whether a wooden vise’s threads can withstand clamping forces. Hard maple’s fine pore structure, density and hardness contribute to stronger wooden threads that are less prone to chipping than more open-pored woods like oak or ash. It also provides larger total surface area for better wear resistance.

Nick has modified the thread pitch to make his maple vises more efficient to operate than metal vises, too. “Our vises move exactly 1 in. for every two turns of the handle,” he says. “Most steel vises, with some exceptions, take four to six turns to move 1 in., so you will be turning the handle two to three times as much for the same vise travel.”

Lake Erie’s Wagon and Shoulder Vise Kits can be retrofitted to existing workbenches or integrated into a bench that you build from scratch. The company also makes an all-maple Moxon Vise, which offers long clamping surfaces and twin-screw strength in a self-contained product that can be clamped to any benchtop or other horizontal work surface. Named after the 17th-century woodworker, Joseph Moxon, who invented the concept, the Moxon Vise is ideal for holding long or wide panels for sawing joinery. And, it offers a broad, sturdy clamping solution for woodworkers who don’t have a cabinetmaker’s bench with integrated vises.

“We manufacture our Moxon Vise because the world needs a high quality all-wood vise that has the same benefits as our other wooden vises: fast, smooth action and tactile feedback while tightening,” Nick says.

Last year, however, Lake Erie broke from its “norm” and created a new clamping accessory that’s made of aluminum instead of wood. “ClampGAUGE” is a precision machined “spring” that’s used in conjunction with bar or pipe clamps. It’s designed to bottom out when the correct amount of clamping pressure is applied to a panel during glue-up.

Nick says that, while working on a design for a clamp attachment that would distribute clamping force over a broader area, the flexible characteristic seemed like a flaw and not a benefit. But, working through the engineering further, Nick realized that ClampGAUGE’s flexibility actually makes it easy for anyone to see the point at which adequate clamping pressure is reached: when the bars flatten out and touch the workpiece, no more pressure need be applied.

“Glue manufacturers have recommended clamping pressures for panel glue-ups that ensure the strongest and longest-lasting glue joints. To date, only woodworking manufacturers could afford to invest in industrial clamping machines that ensure that proper board glue-up pressures are achieved,” Nick says. “Now, with the ClampGAUGE system, all woodworkers can benefit from stronger and longer-lasting panel and tabletop glue-ups.”

The Dombrowskis report that their most popular products are the premium Wood Vise Screw Kit and the Moxon Vise. They attribute speed and smooth action to the vise’s popularity, while the Moxon’s “use it anywhere” convenience makes it a hit. “(The Moxon) allows anyone to cut joinery, even if they don’t have a workbench; they can attach it to a kitchen table and get to work sawing dovetails,” Nick says.

Looking ahead, Lake Erie will soon release a smaller “Light” version of the Moxon Vise, and it can be pre-ordered now. Several variations of the new ClampGAUGE are also in the works for clamping up thicker panels and for use with lighter-duty clamps.

Additionally, the company soon will realize Nick’s original dream of producing custom workbenches, which the Dombrowskis reveal are in Lake Erie’s “near future” plans. But in the meantime, both son and father are enjoying seeing the company continue to mature and grow as Lake Erie Toolworks approaches its decade milestone.

“I actually get to make a living doing what I love, which is designing and building top quality tools for woodworkers,” Nick says.

“And I get to spend quality time with my son as well as join in on running this business as a partial owner,” Jeff adds. “We started with high quality clamping products, but it will continue to grow and expand into other woodworking tools in the years to come. I am a truly fortunate man.”

Learn more about Lake Erie Toolworks and its products by clicking here.

The post Lake Erie Toolworks: Better Clamping Products appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

– Ed Smail
Wilson, Wyoming

The post Making Simple Clamping and Assembly Stands appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

– David Long
Lexington, Kentucky

The post Faster Lathe Sanding by Doubling Up Grits appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

The post Metabo HPT 2-in. Pro Brad Nailer appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

The post Morakniv 164 Hook Knife appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Tim Inman: Distilled water is a known quantity. “Ordinary” water should work just as well, but why push it? Distilled water is cheap, and if it is working for you, why pinch pennies and risk costing you dollars later on? The pH of the water would be the biggest offender, more than likely. Distilled water is neutral, by definition.

Chris Marshall: I agree with Tim — if it ain’t broke, why fix it? Distilled water worked for your paint solution for the cabin, so it should work just as well on your house. When it comes to the alchemy of finishing — be it paint or otherwise — I tend to go with what has proven to work for me in order to avoid unpleasant surprises.

The post Should I Stick with Distilled Water? appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

My favorite finish is tung oil — once I’ve finished sanding the bejesus out of the project. Easy cleanup and ecological too, but a shame it takes so many coats. – Jeff Kelly

I plan my finish during the planning stage. That way I know what look I am going for and what kind of wood to get. My preferred finish is Waterlox®. I slowly build up the finish using cloth applicators. Lately unfortunately, I’m building outdoor projects like steps and shed doors, so my finish is plain, ordinary paint. – Jim

If I am building for indoors with good-looking wood I use shellac and General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. If it’s an outdoor project that will need refinishing every few years I use Teak Oil. I tried Danish oil but was not overly impressed. – Walter Hayes

I’ve tried many staining recipes until I finally focused on natural dyes and shellac. I work with cherry and finally discovered that potassium dichromate will give me the aged look when combined with shellac. I can use shellac toned with dyes or use different shellacs to get the color I want. Multiple layers provide depth to the finish. No blotching! Rub out with wax and steel wool, or topcoat with Waterlox. I just love the warm amber, red-brown hue of shellac. (The final finish) feels wonderful, too. You can apply multiple layers by brushing or spraying because it dries so quickly, but I let it dry overnight after three coats (2-lb. cut). Sometimes I use 10 to 15 coats to get just the right look or to cover sapwood. Trans tint golden brown works great for the shellac toning. Using a French polishing technique you can get a beautiful shine. Shellac gives a rich, warm, old-world look to most woods, especially cherry. It’s my go-to finish! – Jim Hoerter

The post Finish Faves appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Log Cabin Siding

There are at least two ways to construct the sides of a log cabin birdhouse: You can mill each log individually and construct the building one piece at a time, or you can cheat. I decided to go this latter route and built each wall as a single unit. This is a relatively simple table saw process.

To prevent weak cross-grain problems at the corners you want the grain to run horizontally. So start out by edge gluing two 24-1/2″ lengths of Install a 1/2″ dado head in your table saw to create the interlocking corners where the logs meet. The Full-size Pattern provides the key details and dimensions. Transfer them to your work pieces and use your miter gauge to keep the sides at 90° to the blade while you form the notches on two sides at a time, as shown in Figure 2.

A Shingled Roof

If you’ve built a dollhouse, you know how long it takes to cut and install shingles. I figured out how to get the same effect using a dado head in my table saw. The resulting profile is shown on the Full-size Pattern.

Begin by installing a 1/2″ dado head in the saw and setting it to a 10° angle. As you’re using nominal 1 x 6 stock, set the fence so it is 5-1/2″ away from the farthest tip of the blade: this will line up your first cut with the outside edge of the board. Adjust the cutter height so the lowest point of the angled cut is flush with the top of the saw table.

After a test pass on some scrap, make your first cut in an 18-1/8″ long piece of stock, which you can crosscut later to yield both sides of the roof (pieces 2).

After each cut, reset the fence so the next cut just touches the first. Continue until you complete all seven rows of shingles (see Figure 3). Since the angled cut is a hair shy of 3/4″, you’ll be left with an attractive ridge cap. When you’re done, replace the dado head with a standard blade, set the angle to 45° and trim both edges, as shown on the Full-size Pattern. Set these pieces aside while you finish milling the sidewalls.

Assemble and Trim the Walls

As this cabin is destined to become home to a family of chickadees, the front doorway must be sized accordingly. Choose one of the four sidewalls as the front of the house, then refer to the Full-Size Pattern to locate a 1-1/8″ diameter hole near the top. Clamp a piece of scrap to the back face while you drill the hole, to prevent tearout.

Test fit the four sides together. They shouldn’t be overly tight: in fact, a little play is a good thing as the house will expand and contract quite a bit outdoors.

Glue the sidewalls together with waterproof polyurethane glue. Try to keep the glue toward the inside of the house, as it expands as it dries and is difficult to remove from the intersecting log corners. Gently clamp the assembly, making sure it’s square as you apply pressure.

After the glue dries, raise your table saw blade to its full height and set the blade angle to 45°. With the birdhouse clamped firmly to an auxiliary fence on your miter gauge, trim the front and back gables to 45° (refer to the Full-size Pattern). A 10″ saw blade won’t be tall enough to cut all the way to the peak. Simply reset the saw blade back to 90° and, with your miter gauge set at 45°, complete these four cuts (Figure 4).

Attaching the Roof

To preserve the delicate edges of the roof, I decided to forgo clamps while gluing the two slopes together. Instead, I made a hinge along the peak with masking tape, applied polyurethane on its underside with a pencil. Then use a sharp knife or a carving bit in a rotary tool to score shallow V-grooves just inside the pencil marks. These will prevent the glue from squeezing out on the visible side of the walls. Gently clamp the roof in place, using glue to secure it. When the glue dries, use a chisel to clean up any squeeze-out on the inside faces to ensure a toxic-free environment.

The Floor is a Clean-out

Trim the floor (piece 3) to the size shown in the Material List, then reset your saw blade and chamfer its front edge to 10°. The door is 1/8″ shy on the sides to provide both ventilation and drainage.

Install the floor with a galvanized T-hinge (piece 4), setting the hinge so its flap is flush with the bottom of the back wall (see Figure 6). Doing so will automatically place the floor about 3/4″ up from the bottom or the sides. This prevents moisture from wicking up into the house. Predrill for the hinge screws (pieces 5) to help prevent splitting the cedar. Cut the cleat (piece 6) to size and secure it with a single stainless steel screw (piece 7). To clean out the house, simply remove the screw, and the floor will swing down automatically.

Wrapping Up

Sand the birdhouse thoroughly before applying a finish to the outside only. Wood preservative usually used on decking is a good choice, as it’s specifically designed for rugged outdoor use. Oils are not a good option as they may be harmful to the birds, and varnish will eventually flake and wear off. Be prepared to recoat the house once a year.

If the finished house has a dark hue, make its home in the shade of a deciduous tree to prevent overheating in late spring and summer when the chicks are young. A round galvanized pole attached to the back wall with pipe clamps is a sound, predator-safe (as in squirrels and cats) approach. I don’t recommend suspending the house, as some species won’t nest in a swaying birdhouse.

You may install your birdhouse in any season, as birds need a safe refuge at several different times of the year. And if you give it to someone as a gift, you’ll be doubly rewarded as both your friend and the birds will be delighted with their new birdhouse.

Click Here to Download the Drawings and Materials List.

The post CLASSIC PROJECT: Rustic Chickadee Cabin Birdhouse appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.