Issue 577 Archives - Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/weekly-issue/issue-577/ America's Leading Woodworking Authority Tue, 01 Oct 2019 14:16:53 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.0.7 Metabo HPT Joins Gen T https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/metabo-hpt-joins-gen-t/ Tue, 14 May 2019 14:00:58 +0000 https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/?p=52337 Metabo HPT (formerly Hitachi Tools) has joined forces with Lowe's and its co-sponsors in Generation T to help drive enrollment in skilled trades training.

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Late last month, Metabo HPT (formerly Hitachi Power Tools) announced that it has joined Generation T (“Gen T”), a national movement launched by Lowe’s Home Improvement to address the widening skilled trades gap. Together, the contributing sponsors of Gen T seek to drive enrollment in skilled trade training and build a pipeline of skilled trade workers to offset the anticipated gap of 3 million jobs by 2028.

One key component of the movement is a first-of-its-kind national skilled jobs marketplace, available on the Gen T website, that connects people to prospective apprentices.

“Metabo HPT is proud to be a part of this movement, and we are excited about how we can support strengthening our key trade customers,” said Joe Leffler, senior vice president of sales and marketing at Metabo HPT. “Helping drive awareness in support of our future tradesmen and -women throughout the country is vital.”

Metabo HPT joins more than 60 Gen T organizations across the country who are helping to facilitate the education and training needed to populate the skilled trades industry, close the job skills gap and shape a new perception of the skilled trades.

“The success of Generation T begins with a collaboration among our many partners who are using their voices to bring the professional trades back: back to education, back to the American economy and back to a place of admiration and respect in our society,” said Jennifer Weber, executive vice president of human resources at Lowe’s. “We believe the professional trades are an essential part of America’s future, and we’re committed to opening the path to those who relish the challenge of creating something out of raw materials and take pride and satisfaction in mastering the skills required to do it.”

Weber says Lowe’s has seen the success that can result from empowering people with a skilled trade by enrolling more than 1,350 of its employees in the Lowe’s “Track to the Trades” program.

Lowe’s introduced Track to the Trades in February 2018 as a workforce initiative to provide career alternatives and financial support for Lowe’s associates interested in pursuing a skilled trade. Apprenticeship programs include carpentry, HVAC, electrical, plumbing and appliance repair. As a part of this program, Lowe’s also helps facilitate job placements at the company or within its national network of contractors.

Learn more about Metablo HPT by visiting metabo-hpt.com. For more information about Generation T, please visit WeAreGenerationT.com.

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RYOBI® 18V Powersource Inverter https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/ryobi-18v-powersource-inverter/ Tue, 14 May 2019 13:00:36 +0000 https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/?p=52157 When fitted with an 18-volt ONE+ RYOBI battery, this inverter provides a 120-volt outlet and two USB ports for charging small electronics on the go.

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RYOBI’s 18V ONE+™ POWERSOURCE turns 18-volt DC battery power into 120 volts of alternating current, creating an on-the-go outlet for power wherever you need it. Providing 150 watts (1.25 amps) of continuous output, this inverter will power and recharge small electronic devices like laptops, tablets and cell phones. The POWERSOURCE is also equipped with two 2.4-amp USB ports andan on-board LED light. It will accept any RYOBI 18V ONE+ slide-on style battery.

The RYOBI 18V ONE+ POWERSOURCE (model RYI150BG) is sold bare, without a battery or charger, for $79.97. RYOBI covers your purchase with a three-year limited warranty. Find it at Home Depot stores or online.

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Using Toggle Clamp Wedges https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/using-toggle-clamp-wedges/ Tue, 14 May 2019 12:45:39 +0000 https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/?p=52350 Looking for a time saver when tightening your toggle clamps? This reader has a simple trick on how you might avoid the process on your next clamp up.

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It’s a hassle to change the setting on the threaded posts of toggle clamps in order to adjust the rubber bumper’s clamping pressure. When workpieces are too thin for the current setting, I simply insert a small scrap wedge between the rubber bumper and the workpiece to fill the extra space — no need to go looking for my wrenches to adjust the clamp.

– Willie Sandry
Camus, Washington

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Improve Tall Featherboards with Magnets https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/improve-tall-featherboards-with-magnets/ Tue, 14 May 2019 12:20:07 +0000 https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/?p=52358 This reader has a tip for improving your resawing at the band saw. A tall fence you can place and use wherever you need it.

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You’ll improve your success and safety when resawing at the band saw if you use a tall featherboard to support the workpiece against the rip fence. My design here consists of two 3/4″-thick featherboards with a spacer in between, bolted to a base of scrap wood. I’ve added a pair of strong magnets with “On/Off” control to the base, so I can set and lock the featherboard wherever it needs to be.

– Pat Keefer
Manning, South Carolina

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Right Amount of Shop Lighting? https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/right-amount-of-shop-lighting/ Tue, 14 May 2019 12:00:02 +0000 https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/?p=52121 There must be a way to determine the ideal amount and color of lighting required for a woodworking shop. I don't want it too dim or too bright.

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How do you calculate, and what are the standards for, illumination on work surfaces? Are charts available, or, do you just resort to the tried-and-true SWAG (Stupid Wild-** Guess) rule, which then oftentimes leaves you unimpressed with the available light, colors, warmth, visibility, safety, shadows, etc.? I recently visited a home in which the kitchen had been totally remodeled by “experts” who had installed a plethora of small square lights in ceiling fixtures that I thought were totally inadequate for kitchen work. On the other hand, I have visited shops where there was so much extra light that I felt I would have to wear sunscreen all day to work there. How do you determine the right answer? – Roland (Bud) Weisser

Tim Inman: I’m sure there is a standard somewhere, along with testing instruments to measure and calibrate the result. For me, they would be worthless wastes of time and money. Here is my system, which I’ve used for years – decades! I want the light on my work surface to be bright enough I can “see” the texture of paper when I look at it from a convenient working distance away from my eyes. That’s it. It is just that simple, and it works for me. I use a common sheet of white photocopier paper, and I lay it down on the surface where I want to work. Then, especially on my workbench, I move an adjustable lamp so that the surface texture of the paper comes into view. Too bright and it will glare and flare out at me; too low, and I can’t see the paper itself. As time has gone on, I find that a little extra light is usually “helpful.” This “system” is quick and easy, cheap and “do-able.” It is always at the ready, and I have nothing to buy or fix. I hope it works for you, too.

Chris Marshall: In a few clicks you can find lighting calculators on the Internet that will help you determine the “correct” number of lighting fixtures to fill a given cubic-foot area of space with a certain intensity of illumination. I’m sure you’ve already found those, Bud. But, will that be the “right” answer? Can the amount of workshop lighting be generalized for everyone? I’m not sure. I like Tim’s practical solution of illuminating to the point of being able to see paper grain, because it also takes into account that the amount of light you might have needed when working in the shop 10 years ago likely isn’t the same amount of light that you need now. (Once upon a time, I could work under the dim glow of a few lightbulbs in in my basement shop. These days, I’ve got 24 four-foot T8 lamps lighting up my current space, and even that isn’t enough…I’ll probably double this someday.) Honestly, I don’t think I’ve ever visited a workshop that had more light than I could handle. The fewer shadows there are for me to contend with, the better, so I’ll always take more ambient and task lighting! I think the bottom line is, you’re going to need to experiment with your space, obstacles, availability of natural light, methods of work and your own visual challenges to find the right intensity and color of lighting you prefer and need. It might seem like an exercise in SWAG at first, but I’m not sure there’s a better way to achieve your personal ideal for lighting.

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Lake Erie 2X Wood Vise https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/lake-erie-2x-wood-vise/ Tue, 14 May 2019 11:30:17 +0000 https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/?p=52158 A 3-in.-dia. maple screw with a one-turn-per-inch double start thread movement makes this premium bench vise the fastest on the market.

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Before you choose a vise for your next workbench project, consider the new 2X Wood Vise from Lake Erie Toolworks. It’s powered by a massive, 3-in.-dia. maple screw that has a one-turn-per-inch double start thread movement. It is both the largest wooden vise on the market as well as the fastest, Lake Erie says, beating competitor vises in either wood or metal.

The company also reports that the vise’s action can best be described as “jackrabbit fast” and “smooth as butter.”

The 2X Wood Vise Premium Kit is suitable for a variety of bench vise configurations, including leg, twin-screw, face and tail vises. Milled from a solid billet of hard maple with no glue lines, the vise screw is approximately 23 to 24 in. long with a 4-in.-dia. hub. Also included is a 2-3/4-in.-thick x 5-in.-wide x 8- to 9-in.-long hard maple wood nut and a 1”-dia. maple handle with end-grain threaded knobs and O-rings on both ends. The kit’s brass garter set with steel screws comes in either vintage or brushed finishes.

The 2X Wood Vise Premium Kit is available now and sells for $329. Learn more by clicking here.

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How Many Tape Measures? A Lot https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/how-many-tape-measures-a-lot/ Tue, 14 May 2019 10:21:59 +0000 https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/?p=52190 Readers share about their collections of countless tape measures, measuring advice -- and guesses on the dog's tail length.

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In the last issue, Joanna took the measure of her measuring tapes, and asked how many you own. The consensus seems to be that, like clamps, you can never have too many. – Editor

“Tape measures. I can see three from the computer here, there are two in the beast (my vehicle), one in the wife’s car, two in the storage container, and then we get to the collection of folding rules — from the prized ones that were grandfathers, to Dad’s, then mine — and I think I have one of my son’s rules out there… Lots. And then are mind and my wife’s fabric tapes for sewing … more than a lot.” – Riley Grotts

“Regarding tape measures: I have more than two dozen. Some of them are used hard (one is metric; the other inch). Others sit in a desk drawer as an informal collection. These include  some ‘antiques’ from back in the 50s and 60s. In addition, there are several folding rules (6-foot, 2-meter, and several 2-, 3- and 4- -foot folding rules from the 50s). Not all of them are in regular use, but are great aids to helping me remember the good times when working alongside the folks who gave them to me.” – Tom Zordan

“Let’s see. One in the shop, one in the garage, two long ones in the landscaping shed, one in the kitchen, two in my truck, a seamstress one in my desk, one down cellar in the gun shop, and my wife has one in her purse. That’s nine. I can’t think of anything really unusual that I measured.  Everything was pretty much normal.” – Lee Ohmart

“I am like you to a point. I do not carry one with me everywhere, but I do keep one in my truck and in the wife’s car. In my 20-foot x 30-foot shop, I have an even dozen because when I need one, there is never one close at hand. Every now and then, they will congregate, though, and I will have up to six in one place. Tape measures are about like clamps; a woodworker almost cannot have too many. I have three cats that live in my shop, and I accuse them of hiding my tapes, but then they hide more than just my tapes, too.” – Charles Buster

“I have lost count on the number of tape measures I have. I am sure it must number around a dozen. Anywhere from the tiny metric one I used to carry in my shop apron when I ran printing press for 40-plus years to the 25 footer I used to remodel my house. I have the Bob’s graduated tape I inherited from my father-in-law to the ten-footer I use in my workshop. Also assorted steel rules and calipers. There is a tape measure in the kitchen junk drawer to save the long walk to the shop or garage to find one. Several have the markings worn from use, but I cannot bring myself to throw anything away because you never know when you may need it. The wife even carries a small cloth tape rule in her purse for when we are out shopping.” – Kharve

“In response to your question about how many tape measures I own: I carry one in my pocket at all times. Also, there are three migrating around in my shop. And, I have 20 more to use with home school students when I build projects with them. So, a grand total of 24. Want to know how many hammers I own?” – Bob

At least one reader, like Joanna, also keeps one in his winter coat pocket for measuring snow. – Editor

“I have six metric tape measures: one in my desk at home, one in desk at work, one in the truck, two in the shop –- the one is a new one for precision work, AND one in my winter coat pocket. Like Joanna, the one in my coat pocket is to measure how much snow has fallen in the morning and evening. Our annual snowfall [in northern Japan] is 312 inches! Besides the tape measures, I also have several smaller metric rulers and a couple of one-meter-long measures. I suppose I have three or four feet-and-inch tape measures in the bottom drawer of my tool cabinet –- which I haven’t used in years. It is much easier to see/figure .5 mm (slightly smaller than 1/64). With metric, you do not have to deal with fractions – just simple addition and subtraction. Bravo for all of you that can add and subtract in fractions; I can’t. Maybe because I am spending all my time moving snow.” – Steve, aka Daikusan (woodworker)

Some shared advice on measuring. – Editor

“I certainly enjoy your comments and articles. Thank you! I could not help but take serious interest in your ‘The Measure of All Things.’ Yes, tape measures are extremely handy. However, best a person pays attention to the particular tape being used. Today, I used a 100-foot tape to measure where I was planting mahonias. The total distance measured 163 feet. Great! Now to Excel to determine the spacing of 59 plants. Got the measures, and away I went to lay out each plant’s future home. All of a sudden, I noticed my tape measure did not have the 11 inch marked on it. Turned out I was using a surveyor’s tape, which is marked off in tenths. Back to Excel with some changes made, then back to work. All worked out very well and I ended up putting the 59th plant in the 59th hole. Great use of the tape measure.

“A few years ago, I was commissioned to build a frame for a visiting presenter at a math-sponsored event. I was given the measurements and was told explicitly to be within one-eighth of an inch accuracy. The frame measured something like 54 inches by 72 inches. The presenter, an artist, used dominoes to build a picture of Leonardo da Vinci’s head. I struggled to make sure I had an accurate tapemeasure. At the time, I had 10 tape measures, so I measured out 72 inches on a board and made a mark. I checked all ten tapes against this measure. NOT ONE OF THEM gave the same measure, even when I started at the one inch mark and measured to 73 inches. The result was, a quarter of an inch under on one tape to three-sixteenths of an inch over on another tape. I was shocked and becoming very anxious about how I was going to be within one-eighth of an inch to his desired frame size. I finally chose the tape that was closest to an average of all 10 tapes. I stuck with that tape. As it turned out, I assisted the artist with the dominoes and, to my surprise, there was no need to be within one-eighth of an inch for the stated frame size. There was a lot of room between all the dominoes as the space between them comes close to being the same distance.

“Added note:  I did research looking for what the United States government and international standards were for tape measures. I was very surprised that all my 10 tapes met the tolerance level allowed by these agencies. A strong suggestion: Choose one tape measure and stick with it through the project.” – Bob Gilda

“I measure too much, but that is how I get a feel for lengths. I am getting more in the habit of using story sticks for checking measurements or stop blocks now on my saws and, honestly, my woodworking precision has improved. Dry fits and glue-ups go so much better. I also am getting a habit of using a marking gauge and marking knife for many of my layouts. I have heard this method is more accurate for years, but resisted until I built a more complicated project a couple of years ago. I am sold and offer this advice to all my kids and friends. How many tapes and measuring devices do I have? WOW! One always within arm’s reach in my shop (and shop apron) and three to four in my house. I am also using digital calipers for a lot of work when I need to know a measurement to duplicate. With the calipers, many times I choose the metric scale to get finer measurements without the large fractions.” – Tony Newman

And at least a couple of you (plus some coworkers) also submitted your guesses on the length of Joanna’s dog’s tail. – Editor

“I have at least five metal tape measures. One in my car. I go to Goodwills regularly and am always needing to measure something there. I as well have a retractable cloth tape. And I guess your dog’s tail is 28 inches.” – Steve Wellendorf

“Tapes, you say? I can think of nine: two in the garage where my large power tools are; five in a small shop (shed) where my lathe, drill press and an old 8-inch Craftsman table saw are (three 25-foot tapes, one metric and a cloth seamstress tape); one in the office; and Susan, the love of my life, has one in the laundry cabinet (also in the garage). She also sews and has at least one more cloth tape in her sewing cabinet. And, of course, there are numerous rulers (plastic, wood and steel) in several places in the shop and the house. Oh, yeah: my guess is the dog’s tail is 22-1/2 inches. Sue’s guess is 20 inches.” – Gordon Patnude

For the record: it’s 17-1/2 inches long. – Editor

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Make a Northwoods Canoe Paddle https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/canoe-paddle/ Wed, 26 Aug 2015 20:32:37 +0000 http://rocklerwj.wpengine.com/?p=21901 Learn to make a traditional solid wood canoe paddle and improve your hand tool skills while you're at it.

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Learn to make a traditional solid wood canoe paddle, a tool that travelers in these parts have been making and using for hundreds of years.

There’s a special place on the shore of Lake Superior, in Grand Marais, Minnesota, that combines the loves of handmade crafts, the outdoors and northern traditions. That place is the North House Folk School, a school that offers classes about such varied topics as woodworking, pottery, blacksmithing, traditional outdoor skills, boat making and cooking. I recently spent a couple of days there when the activities on campus included basket weaving, sausage making, canoe building and, in my case, making a paddle

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I can explain the basic process of making a paddle and share the plans with you, but I don’t think I’ll do the experience justice. You can learn to make most projects with a good set of plans and instructions, but the benefits of attending a class at a school like North House are meeting and working with other people that share your enthusiasm and the insights you gain from the instructor. Mike Schelmeske, a resident of Grand Marais who has been making paddles and other hand tools for over 30 years, taught my class. He’s made nearly 200 paddles and helped others make another 200.

VIDEO: Paddle Making at North House Folk School

Choosing the Wood

Contrary to many assumptions, a paddle does not have to be made from moisture-resistant wood. As long as you apply a finish and hang your paddle to dry thoroughly after each use, you can make a paddle out of just about any wood. The best wood species for paddles are both strong and lightweight.

Mike’s go-to choice is basswood. Other popular options include white cedar and Alaskan yellow cedar. These woods tend to have less character to their grains, but they are light- weight and easy to shape. If you’d like something with more interesting character, then you might choose a hardwood, such as ash, black cherry or walnut, but these woods will be heavier. Another consideration to keep in mind is that more interesting grain patterns tend to be more challenging to plane. Whatever species you choose, start with a piece that is 5/4″ thick by at least 7″ wide by roughly 60″ long (the length depends on the intended paddler’s height; see photo, page 46). It’s also best to select a board that has a symmetrical growth ring pattern.

Design

There are countless variations of paddle designs. Mike had a selection of several templates that he has collected over the years. He was even kind enough to share his 26″ Northwoods beavertail style blade and handle templates for you to use (see Drawings). We made a traditional solid wood paddle, but you can also laminate multiple pieces together and use the same templates and techniques to make a laminated paddle. Keep in mind that using multiple wood species and grain directions in the same paddle blank may create hand planing challenges.

Download Canoe Paddle Template PDF

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Mark the center of the board’s growth ring pattern on the end of the board. Then draw a centerline on the wide face. Determine how long your paddle will be and mark the top and bottom ends of the paddle on the centerline. Then trace the blade and handle (inset photo) patterns on both sides of the centerline. Measure 9/16" out on either side of the centerline and draw lines to designate the 11⁄8"-thick shaft between the blade and handle. Next, use a band saw to cut out the paddle shape.
Mark the center of the board’s growth ring pattern on the end of the board. Then draw a centerline on the wide face. Determine how long your paddle will be and mark the top and bottom ends of the paddle on the centerline. Then trace the blade and handle (inset photo) patterns on both sides of the centerline. Measure 9/16″ out on either side of the centerline and draw lines to designate the 11⁄8″-thick shaft between the blade and handle. Next, use a band saw to cut out the paddle shape.

 

Mark the center of the board’s growth ring pattern on the end of the board. Then draw a centerline on the wide face. Determine how long your paddle will be and mark the top and bottom ends of the paddle on the centerline. Then trace the blade and handle patterns on both sides of the centerline. Measure 9/16" out on either side of the centerline and draw lines to designate the 11⁄8"-thick shaft between the blade and handle. Next, use a band saw to cut out the paddle shape.
Mark the center of the board’s growth ring pattern on the end of the board. Then draw a centerline on the wide face. Determine how long your paddle will be and mark the top and bottom ends of the paddle on the centerline. Then trace the blade and handle patterns on both sides of the centerline. Measure 9/16″ out on either side of the centerline and draw lines to designate the 11⁄8″-thick shaft between the blade and handle. Next, use a band saw to cut out the paddle shape.
Mark lines along the length of the shaft that are 1/4" in from each edge on the top and bottom faces. Then mark lines 5/16" in from each edge on the side faces. These lines designate the radius of the shaft edges.
Mark lines along the length of the shaft that are 1/4″ in from each edge on the top and bottom faces. Then mark lines 5/16″ in from each edge on the side faces. These lines designate the radius of the shaft edges.
Trace the Side View template onto the side of the handle. Notice that the top of the template extends beyond the corner of the handle so that it aligns with the longest point at the handle’s centerline.
Trace the Side View template onto the side of the handle. Notice that the top of the template extends beyond the corner of the handle so that it aligns with the longest point at the handle’s centerline.

Shaping

The steps to make a paddle are fairly easy to follow (see below). As the 
old woodcarver’s joke goes, you simply start with a piece of stock and remove all the wood that doesn’t look like a paddle. Depending on your ability with a hand plane, making your first paddle will take the better part of a weekend. You can speed up the initial blade planing process with a power planer, but the rest of the shaping is best done with hand planes, a spokeshave and maybe a carving or crooked knife.

The goal is to remove as much material as you can without compromising strength. The most common mistake for participants in my class was actually being too cautious and not removing enough material. Unfortunately, knowing when to stop removing material is something that comes with experience — another reason attending a class with a seasoned instructor was helpful.

Step-by-Step:

1. The tip and edges of the paddle’s blade should be 1/4" thick or slightly less. Mark this thickness on the edge of the blade. Use a jack or smoothing plane to taper the blade faces. Start the taper 2" to 3" below the intersection of the blade and the shaft.
1. The tip and edges of the paddle’s blade should be 1/4″ thick or slightly less. Mark this thickness on the edge of the blade. Use a jack or smoothing plane to taper the blade faces. Start the taper 2″ to 3″ below the intersection of the blade and the shaft.
Draw a new centerline on the blade faces. Use a block plane to taper from the centerline out to the edges of the blade. This taper should be flat and not rounded. Use a straightedge or the edge of the plane sole to check for high spots.
2. Draw a new centerline on the blade faces. Use a block plane to taper from the centerline out to the edges of the blade. This taper should be flat and not rounded. Use a straightedge or the edge of the plane sole to check for high spots.
3. Use a spokeshave to shape the transition between the shaft and the blade. The goal is to create a smooth, seamless transition. Remove small amounts on each side of the shaft and check frequently to keep the transition symmetrical.
3. Use a spokeshave to shape the transition between the shaft and the blade. The goal is to create a smooth, seamless transition. Remove small amounts on each side of the shaft and check frequently to keep the transition symmetrical.
4. Shape the shaft, using the lines you drew (see photos on previous page). Round over the edges to create a comfortable grip. The amount of roundover is a matter of personal preference. Leave a short section in the middle of the shaft square for clamping.
4. Shape the shaft, using the lines you drew. Round over the edges to create a comfortable grip. The amount of roundover is a matter of personal preference. Leave a short section in the middle of the shaft square for clamping.
5. Draw radius corners on the end of the handle. Like the shaft shape, the amount of radius is a matter of personal preference. Some people prefer a flatter handle, and others prefer a more rounded, bulbous handle.
5. Draw radius corners on the end of the handle. Like the shaft shape, the amount of radius is a matter of personal preference. Some people prefer a flatter handle, and others prefer a more rounded, bulbous handle.
6. Use a spokeshave to create the concave sides of the handle, using the lines drawn on the side of the handle. Test the grip and continue to remove material until the grip is comfortable.
6. Use a spokeshave to create the concave sides of the handle, using the lines drawn on the side of the handle. Test the grip and continue to remove material until the grip is comfortable.
7. Shape the radius corners with a block plane. Work in from the end of the handle to prevent chipping on the edges. Continue shaping the handle with a combination of the block plane, spokeshave and carving knives.
7. Shape the radius corners with a block plane. Work in from the end of the handle to prevent chipping on the edges. Continue shaping the handle with a combination of the block plane, spokeshave and carving knives.
8. Round over the top of the handle. Try to create smooth transitions between all surfaces of the handle and shaft. Cradling the handle and using a push- ing motion works well for making controlled cuts on the end grain.
8. Round over the top of the handle. Try to create smooth transitions between all surfaces of the handle and shaft. Cradling the handle and using a push- ing motion works well for making controlled cuts on the end grain.
9. The final shaping step is to reposition the clamp on a finished section of the shaft, using a clamping block with a V-notch to secure the paddle. Then shape the last section of shaft to smoothly blend with the rest of it.
9. The final shaping step is to reposition the clamp on a finished section of the shaft, using a clamping block with a V-notch to secure the paddle. Then shape the last section of shaft to smoothly blend with the rest of it.

Finishing

There are two schools of thought when it comes to finishing a paddle. One approach is to use a marine varnish or epoxy to provide maximum protection. The downside of this approach is that when the finish eventually breaks down, it requires more work to refinish. The other approach, the one that Mike endorses, is to apply an oil finish, such as tung oil finish, that will seal the wood, but does not create a thick film layer. An oil finish must be reapplied more frequently, depending on how much use the paddle gets. In either case, the best way to keep your paddle in good condition is to hang it up to dry thoroughly after each use.

Whether you make one for yourself or as a gift, making a paddle is a very satisfying project. It will pay you back everytime you use it. Even if you choose not to make a paddle, I highly recommend seeking out a craft school in your area and enrolling in a class. The experience will leave you with new skills, a new project and new friends.

Dan Cary manages and creates digital content for Woodworker’s Journal and former Editor in Chief of HandyMagazine. Follow him on Instagram and Twitter at @danrcary

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