Steve and his wife Diane, while also both working additional full-time jobs, started Abba Woodworks –- run out of a small shop in their basement –- a few years ago and began selling their wares at Baltimore area farmers’ markets. “We noticed that there were a lot of guy who were unemployed and homeless, and so we used them to helps us pack and unpack our trucks.”

Those first interactions grew into a setup in which Abba Woodworks becomes a training ground for some of the members of Baltimore’s homeless community. “We do everything from teaching somebody how to read a tape measure, or we’ll teach them how to read blueprints,” Steve said. “Sometimes, as soon as they learn how to read a tape measure, two weeks later, they’re gone and they’re working for someone else – which is fine. That’s part of the reason why I’m doing this, is to get people working and helping them to become successful in whatever endeavor they want to do.”

One of the things that helps him in this endeavor is access to free or low-cost wood: skids and pallets donated by businesses such as area restaurants and coffee shops. Steve cited one story in which an Abba Woodworks trainee made a box the wrong size and became greatly upset, thinking that redoing it would greatly increase the cost of the product. “I said, ‘No, it’s not an issue. You’re learning. If you make a mistake like this, you’ll learn from it and you’ll remember, OK this is what I need to do to make sure it’s cut correct the next time.’”

Steve got started using pallet lumber when a friend of his who works as a permaculturalist in Baltimore city schools and wanted to teach the students about gardening. “He said, ‘I have no wood, but could you make me some raised beds?’” The next day, Steve said, “I went to work and my boss came to me and said, ‘I have these skids and I don’t know what to do with them. I don’t want to throw them away, because they’re good material, but I don’t have any use for them.’” Steve took a few home, took them apart, and then made three, three-foot by 12-foot raised garden beds to donate to his friend’s school.

The raised garden beds have continued to be a popular product, with Steve and Abba Woodworks creating both stock and custom sizes that are used by Baltimore residents with poor soil for growing herbs or vegetables, or by schools or other organizations.

Among other Abba Woodworks products are wine racks, coat racks, tables, benches and serving trays – all original designs (Steve says some of them come to him in dreams) and all featured in Steve and Diane’s book, Wood Pallet DIY Projects from Fox Chapel Publishing [ISBN 978-1-56523-930-2].

The book also includes information on working with pallet wood, for which one of the main challenges, Steve said, is removing the nails. Generally, he said, there are two types of nails found in pallets: twisted nails or ringed nails (often used in flooring). He generally cuts off the ringed nails with an orbital saw fitted with a metal blade, while the twisted nails can be pulled out.

“That part of it is very labor-intensive, but when you have a guy who doesn’t have any skills, or very little skills, you just start him out with taking pallets apart,” Steve said. “What he learns from that is how to work with the wood: you have to be able to read the grain and you have to be able to run with the grain instead of against it.” If someone just starts prying a pallet apart, it will often break up and became useless for anything but firewood, Steve said, “but what they do is they learn there’s a certain technique in the way that you do it. You get more yield out of it if you go with the grain instead of against the grain.”

His employees, he said, are hard workers. Some might have learning disabilities or other issues in their backgrounds, such as a survival mode mentality from living on the streets. With one employee, Steve said, “I had to sit him down and say, ‘You’re in a safe place.’ I had to teach him that [the shop] was an environment that was healthy and good for him.”

Steve, who has dyslexia, can empathize. “I struggled in school, but the one place I didn’t struggle was in the shop,” he said. He credits his initial interest in woodworking to his grandfather, who “gave me a hammer and nails and a block of wood and just had me start nailing this block.” In part, the name “Abba” Woodworks, with “abba” meaning “father” is a way to honor his grandfather. “The other part is Abba is God our Father,” and the name is meant to honor “all of the things I feel like God has created and given us a creative outlet through Abba Woodworks.”

With 38 years of professional experience in woodworking, Steve said, “Woodworking is my background. It’s what I know. If I can teach somebody through that and then they can go and learn what they can get from me and then use the job skills and other things to get them into where they really want to be – I don’t know how to explain that.”

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I drill a second, centered hole at the bottom for the post’s threaded insert. Once the levelers are installed, you can back them out until the pad just clears the big hole and serves its leveling purpose but without lifting the leg too far up. With this fix, you’ll almost forget the levelers are even there.

– Willie Sandry
Camas, Washington

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– Serge Duclos
Delson, Quebec

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I thought that, because I was taking the different grit sandpaper discs (Side B) off and on to change from lower to higher grit, I was shortening the life of the pad, so I bought sanders for each grit from 60 thru 320. That still doesn’t work with random-orbit type sanders. I buy Side A from Superior Pads and Abrasives. I use several of the same grits on the same sander and, after about three Side B’s, the Side A fails to hold Side B any longer. I have a drawer full of Side A backing pads and none of them will hold sandpaper Side B discs. I am using Makita 5-in. random-orbit sanders and a DeWALT 5-in. random-orbit sander.

My questions to you are these: Is there any way to reconstitute Side A Velcro backing pads, or am I just out the money? If there is nothing I can do, is there a manufacturer from whom I can purchase higher quality Side A backing pads? Is there a random-orbit sander I should use instead of Makita or DeWALT? And, can you explain how these backing pads and sanding discs work?” – John App

Chris Marshall: Sorry to hear that you’ve spent so much money on sanders and sanding pads, John! Your problem is perplexing for me because I’ve used many different models of random-orbit sanders with hook-and-loop (Velcro) pads as well as various brands of sanding discs. I’ve never had the same problem with the backing pads eventually failing to hold the discs. Still, I’ll share a couple of thoughts with you here. First, Makita makes quality tools, and so does DeWALT. I don’t think you need to switch sander brands. But, I would advise that if you need to replace their pads, use the exact parts offered by Makita or DeWALT — their pads are designed and tested for the tools. Aftermarket pads may not provide the same interface quality as OEM.

Second, hook-and-loop is a pretty foolproof system: the sander pad’s tiny plastic “hooks” engage with the sanding disc fabric “loops” to hold the discs in place. There’s lots of surface area here, so a very uniform field of connection between hooks and loops. However, it’s possible that one or the other side of the “fit” is contaminated with accumulated sanding dust, and that’s what’s led to a failure. Try vacuuming the pads and discs thoroughly, or clean them with a plastic-bristle brush, and see if that doesn’t improve their attachment to one another. If you don’t connect your sanders to a shop vac or dust extractor during use, that might also help keep sanding dust from eventually clogging the pads.

Another possibility is that when you sand, you’re pressing down so hard on the sander that the heat buildup on the pad’s surface is fracturing and/or overheating the tiny hooks so that they’re deforming or breaking off. Fewer hooks, less “stick.” A random-orbit sander really doesn’t need more downward pressure applied to it than the weight of the tool and your hand. Pushing down doesn’t improve sanding quality, even though it might seem like it speeds up the process. The contrary is usually true: a heavy hand leaves sanding swirls and “pigtail” marks in the wood that can show up under finish, especially when it’s stained — not good. You might extend the life of your sanding pads and actually improve your surface prep efforts by using a gentler hand on the tool and letting the sander’s own weight and motion do most of the work.

Tim Inman: My answer will not be pleasing to you. I have never found the “Velcro” system useful; I use sticky discs. Why? The idea that different grit discs can be peeled off and re-used may seem attractive. In practice, the discs, once used, should be thrown away. To me, working in the shop to make a living, it is folly to try keeping used sanding discs around for a second go later on. Sandpaper, like virtually all other cutting tools in the shop, gets dull. As it wears, the sharp edges of the abrasive material dulls down. Some abrasive grits are said to shear off and renew the cutting edge. But really, for the price of a sticky, I pitch ’em and go for a new sharp one.

The soft interlayer of the attachment system on hook-and-loops also makes sanding and re-shaping with any kind of finesse pretty difficult. Trying to cut a fill to leave a high sharp arise is much easier with a sticky on a firm backer. Sanding a filler flat is easier with stickies, too. That said, I do use hook-and-loop systems on my polishing machines and that works out well.

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With a full 13 in. of resaw capacity and 360 square inches of tabletop area, it can perform a wide range of woodcutting tasks — crosscutting large workpieces to size, slicing veneers, sawing curves for cabinetry and furniture, creating intricate scrollwork and cutting book-matched panels.

The saw’s cast-iron table is precision ground for flatness and tilts 0 to 45 degrees, providing support for a wide range of bevel cuts. A full-size, premium metal miter gauge is provided for the table’s miter slot. Table height measures 40 in. from the floor.

Weighing more than 300 lbs., the saw has a rugged tubular steel, welded frame, one-piece base and lower-bearing bolt pattern for added rigidity. This construction provides stability for smooth operation and minimal vibration. Cast-iron blade wheels are precisely machined and computer balanced to reduce vibration and ensure accurate blade tracking.

Its upper and lower ball-bearing blade guides are independently adjustable and tool-free. The saw also is equipped with a 6-1/8-in.-tall x 18-3/16-in.-long extruded aluminum, dual-position fence that can be used in a vertical position for resawing or horizontal position for precision cuts. The fence slides on a steel guard rail and is fully adjustable with a laser-etched scale and micro-adjust feature.

Blade widths for this saw can range from 1/8 up to 1 in., and a 5/8-in., 4 tooth-per-inch blade is included. It requires 116-in.-long blades.

The saw’s 1-3/4 HP, single-phase motor is prewired for 115-volt service. A paddle-style On/Off-switch with safety key is provided, as well as a 115-volt outlet for optional accessories. Dual 4-in.-dia. dust ports, located in back, connect to a dust collection system.

“Our new JET 14-in. SFX Band Saw is aggressively priced, while providing woodworkers with a lineup of premium features to tackle ambitious projects that involve sawing large workpieces, as well as providing maximum flexibility for intricate cuts,” says Tobias Bridges, JET’s director of product management for woodworking. “It’s a great fit for serious enthusiasts, as well as small- to mid-sized woodshops.”

The new 14” SFX Steel Frame Band Saw (model 714400K) sells for $1,099.99, and JET covers the purchase with a five-year warranty. Optional accessories include an LED worklight (item 714403; $49.99) that bolts onto the head of the band saw to illuminate the cutting area and a mobile base (item 708118; $89.99).

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Some people had some philosophical thoughts on the different joinery options. – Editor

“Did you ever think what it might be like to have the cars of today if we didn’t have the first Model A’s and Model T’s and build on that and improve each year’s models and get the cars we have today? It just seems like, to me, that we put down biscuit joiners when that product gave us what we have today by refining and bringing us different ideas that help us to do something better. Maybe it was not the greatest product in the world and some people didn’t like it. That didn’t make a difference in other people refining that product or bringing along something that we could get that was a better product for joining wood. Did we have the table saws and drill presses 50 years ago or even a few years ago that we have now? No, we didn’t, but the improvements come along with time. So biscuit joiners were great for what they did when they came around.” – Ron Davis

“I think we are a nation that follows fads.  When I started woodworking, the way to join two boards on edge was on the shaper with the interlocking joint.  Then the new thing was dowels, then biscuits, and now the Domino cutter with floating tenons. Norm [Abram] introduced  many people to the joy of woodworking, which was wonderful as schools were dropping woodwork in droves.  It’s like the county newspaper editor told me years ago, ‘but it sells papers.’ Seems everyone at the bottom of it is selling something. That’s what keeps the show on or the magazine in business. Even you are always selling something. But let’s all enjoy the show or the read and learn together.

“For me, there are times that the biscuit makes sense, but if I can use a mortise-and-tenon or a floating tenon made with the matchmaker (or the vertical router table), that is the way I go. I still think the interlocking shaper joint is my choice for joining two boards edge to edge. But, after all that, sometimes I just joint the edges and glue them together edge to edge. I looked at the Domino machine, but decided against it as it is just too expensive for me and I wonder how long it will last and if it is then too expensive to repair.” – Charles Grauer

“I have been wondering about biscuit joinery and if it has been supplanted by something, too. I like the technique and I have used it. Recently, I have been using Kreg pocket joinery simply because it is fast and can be strong. The type of projects I am building are not really suited to biscuits. I have also seen the Domino technology on several TV shows. I am personally disinclined to make that investment at this point in my woodworking, but I do like the idea of floating tenons. Easy-peasy.

“What I see in the biscuit is that it may not be as robust as the Domino or other joint. Is it suited to use as the main connection for a table apron, for example? I also think that the magazines that we all use have emphasized other methods. I still think it is quick and excellent for building up a table top. If you have a biscuit joiner, why buy a Domino for this kind of task? I have also used biscuits to strengthen the banding on bookshelves. After more than 15 years, I see no sag in those shelves.

“I just think that Kreg and Festool are promoting their tools and technology more than Porter-Cable, for example.” – John Walters

“Biscuits aren’t in decline, they are just a different shape these days. The Domino joiner has become the biscuit joiner du jour. It is a different shape and may or may not be stronger, but they are basically loose tenon joints. When I first got serious about fine woodworking, the biscuit joiner was the latest and greatest thing. If you owned a Lamello biscuit joiner, you were top dog. The rest of us had to settle for something else. Now, the Domino is just this generation’s biscuit joiner.” – Robby Wright

Some are big fans of the Domino jointer. – Editor

“I switched to Dominoes. Better alignment and stronger joint.” – James Denford

“Dominos for me.” – Don Grant

“I can speak as one that has a biscuit machine and a Domino. Since buying the Domino, I have used the biscuit machine less and less. I originally bought the Domino DF 700 for the very large Dominos as I was building a dining table for my cabin out of 12-in. logs and needed the largest size they made. I liked it so well that I bought the DF 500 as well and use it on most projects. I’m 62 years old and the 700 is a little heavy to
be using all day.” – Kris Jones

“I use biscuits, but it has become more and more seldom, especially since I have the Domino jointer system. It’s not that they are any less accurate since that is a function of the user, but they take a larger entry point. As for dowels, they are far more difficult to get done accurately and they just don’t provide the accuracy of Dominos or biscuits. I feel that the Domino joiner has a lot more to offer in ease of use and accuracy that either of the other two. Yes, it has a greater startup cost, but the quality of the joint is significantly better. The equipment also offers a better way to do the cutting process as well, and I can get that much closer to the edge without fear of having the cut exposed as happens at times with the biscuit.” – R.L. Hoyle

While others prefer other methods of joinery – or mixing it up. – Editor

“Dowelmax produces precise alignment of joints and strong, stable and durable unions at a cost far lower than competing doweling tools. Biscuits getting stale. Thanks for another useful survey.” – Steve Schwid

“Several years ago, I purchased a biscuit jointer but rarely use it. Apparently, it was more of an impulse buy for me… I feel like other methods seem to work just fine and push me to use more of the skill levels I have learned over the years. My biscuit use will now be limited to times when my wife and I make up a batch of country gravy in the kitchen.” – Greg Little

“Biscuits vs. dowels: I look to the wood industry, I see dowels used almost totally. I felt from the get-go they were inferior, if not maybe just a lark. I know that some people like them, but my 70-plus years of woodworking has always favored the ‘old standard,” and I’m sure that will not change. Why chance it?” – John Schmitt

“I’m using pocket-hole, clamps, screws and glue. I know that the pocket-hole people say that glue isn’t necessary but, what the heck, glue’s cheap.” – Larry Taylor

“I prefer ‘real joinery’ like dovetails or mortise-and-tenon. Dowels, I don’t care for, because you’re adding a dissimilar material to the joint that will react to conditions differently. Think of any old piece of furniture you may have seen; they usually fail at the doweled joint. That being said, my main use for biscuits is to reinforce miter joints on picture frames. Since it’s engineered to expand to fit the slot, it eliminates the problem with cutting for splines and is a much easier process. There’s my two cents!” – John G. Eugster

“It seems to me as if different joinery methods go in and out of vogue. I, for one, cannot imagine spending the money it costs for a Domino machine. I use biscuits, but I often use splines for long joints because they can make a very solid joint I can depend on (usually out of 1/8 -1/4 inch ply). I also use a doweling jig from time to time if I am doing a join that benefits from everything being centered (happens in cribs and other furniture items). So, for me, it just depends on the application. I try to think my way through the problem and often use what looks best. On a door frame, I may use biscuits with a mitered corner, but on the door, especially if it needs a ‘country’ look, I may use a mortise-and-tenon on the corners just to ‘break it up a little’ (my wife would say just to show off a little or prove I am not a one-trick pony). It’s all good.” – Dr. Steve Gardner

“I have a biscuit cutter and have used it on a couple of occasions with limited success (a large mitered frame with biscuits in the corners ‘let go’). No doubt my technique may be to blame. Most recently, I opted for a spline in a shelf-top glue-up and was very pleased.” – Jayme Johnson

“In my humble opinion, pocket-hole joinery has taken over. I do use biscuits occasionally, but a lot more pocket holes, in particular Kreg.” – Patrick Darrigan

“Like you, I like biscuits in the morning, and sometimes supper, too. That said, as a method of joinery, I like it when constructing boxes from plywood material, like cabinet carcasses. Otherwise, I often find it less convenient than other methods for most of my uses.” – Christopher MacDonald

A couple of people were definitely anti-biscuit. – Editor

“I think that the one thing more than others that has scared me from using biscuits when I could have is that I heard that they swell. That certainly can cause a problem in joining.” – Jack Abbott

“The answer to that starts with ‘Duh!’ Well-known fact: biscuits have little or no strength, and their sole use is to keep edge-joined boards aligned. Therefore, there is almost no such thing as a biscuit joint. It’s an edge joint.” – Barry Saltsberg

While, for others, the love affair with biscuits continues. – Editor

“I think biscuits are a great idea. I especially find them useful when aligning and gluing boards edge to edge for tabletops. I’m currently finishing a small bedside table commissioned by my granddaughter, and I used biscuits in assembling this piece of furniture. The alternative would be doweling which, to me, is inherently inferior as a method, although they have their place. I do like dowels for certain applications, such as joining tabletops to the base for their decorative appeal when using contrasting wood. In this table, the wood is white oak and Siberian elm, lighter colored woods per her request. The dowels are walnut.” – Sim Galazka

“I still use biscuits, especially for long pieces, seems much easier to line up during joining. Bought a cheap cutter some years back for one project; I have found a number of items that I use them for and am waiting for the cheap cutter to wear out.” – Dave Meggers

“I have a standard biscuit jointer and a mini-jointer. I use biscuit joints often, mostly when edge gluing boards and when I need to strengthen miter joints. I also use them to pre-assemble face frames for cabinet work because I can make the face frame square before I attach it to the cabinet carcass, which may be slightly out of square. I find them to be easy, reliable and inexpensive. I would not use them as a substitute for a mortise-and-tenon joint. I think we sometimes get caught up in the enthusiasm of a new ‘toy,’ usually at some expense and little advantage.” –  Bob Lane

“I love biscuit joints – to me, they are easy and fast.” – Dwight Doane

“I still use biscuits, not only for the joint strength, but also for keeping the boards aligned.” – Tom Boland

“ I have a biscuit jointer and have been using one for many years with very satisfactory results. I have no reason to go out and buy another type of jointer and discard a perfectly good biscuit jointer. I see the new Domino type jointers being used on the woodworking shows that I watch, it would be interesting to see a side by side comparison test on the strength of each joint. Also, I am a senior woodworker and can’t justify the cost or the change of a tool that is perfectly good at doing the task.” – Jim Whip

“Biscuit joinery may be on the decline; however, I have not noticed it in my shop. I have used a biscuit joiner in my shop for over 15 years. I have found
joints I have constructed intact and very much successful. I find them much more successful than standard or dowel glue joint construction.” – Edwin D. Henry

“Biscuits are very helpful in leveling a multi-board glue-up. They may even add strength to the joint, which really is not required. Their use is limited so why spend the dollars.” – Michael Luciano

“I still use biscuits as they offer more versatility for my projects.” – Elvin G Miali

“I guess I am old-school. I still use biscuits for keeping boards aligned when gluing panels and anywhere needed to hold parts.” – Ed Eldridge

“I’m just a hobbyist woodworker. I love my biscuit joiner and will continue to use it without hesitation. The other systems may be very good, and I may try some of them someday, but I can wait.” – David Wheat

“Still using [biscuits] with a 15-year old DeWALT joiner. Works well, except for the rare moments when I go ‘biscuit blind’ and insert them in both sides of a joint. Go ahead, tell me you’ve never done that!” – Bob Adler

“I use them when making barnwood picture frames. The wood is heavy and the frames are large, so biscuit joinery is really important.” – Terry Chalk

“I still use [biscuits] on all my edge gluing projects. They work fine and I am not going to buy another tool to do essentially the same thing.” – Ralph Cosh

“Love ‘em’! I own a Porter-Cable plate jointer with small FF biscuit feature and use all sizes of biscuits, especially the 20s. In fact, I just recently purchased a bag of 1000 after the bag I had for a couple years ran out. I use them for everything from cabinet making to picture frames to small kids’ chairs. Never had one fail yet, as far as I know.” – Dennis Grant

“I use these to help in the alignment of long pieces of material. I also use them when I don’t want visible fasteners. Mitered corners can easily be reinforced with a biscuit. Do they do everything? Heck, no. However, they are a fast and inexpensive way to solve problems and situations in the shop. You will have to pry my biscuit joiner from my cold, dead hands.” – Ron Popp

The post Biscuits: Like ‘Em or Lump ‘Em? appeared first on Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans | How To.

Even though it wasn’t the best saw in the world — it had a weak motor and a puny 8″ blade that was difficult to tilt — that vintage saw did yeoman’s duty, ripping and crosscutting boards (i.e., cutting them both with and across the grain), cutting miters and bevels and grooves and dadoes. As I took on more complex projects, I discovered just how versatile a table saw could be. Using both store-bought and shop-made jigs, I expanded my saw’s repertoire to include cutting tenons and box joints, raising panels and more.

Just What Can a Table Saw Do?

This versatile machine is capable of such a wide variety of cuts, it’s no wonder that a table saw is the centerpiece of most modern shops.

Using nothing more than the basic equipment that comes standard, you can perform all the basic cuts needed for an endless number of traditional woodworking tasks and home improvement projects:

Using the miter gauge, you can cut 45˚corners for picture and mirror frames and small boxes, cases and drawers. The rip fence is used to cut stock to width, panels to size, or to recut boards, thickness wise, to make your own veneers or split stock to book-match the grain for decorative panels. Working with the saw’s blade tilted, you can take compound cuts for frames, chests or planters with angled sides. Fit the saw with a dado blade and you can cut all manner of grooves, dadoes and rabbets, perfect for simple cabinet joinery, say to build a bookcase or display shelf.

By employing a variety of jigs and fixtures, a table saw can perform a vast array of tasks including:

– Cutting large sheet goods to size. Sliding tables, crosscut sleds, and long extension tables can all be used for safely sawing full-sized sheets of plywood and large panels to final size when building cabinets and furniture.

– Sawing tenons for mortise-and-tenon joinery. Tenons are cut by passing frame members vertically past the saw blade using a sliding jig.

– Cutting box joints. Milled with a dado blade and special jig, box joints are a series of alternating fingers and notches that interlock to form the corners of boxes, drawers, blanket chests, etc.

– Tapering. A tapering jig is used to cut tapered furniture legs and other parts that need to be wider at one end than the other. Bevel-cut tapered staves can be used to build projects with angled sides, like stands and planter boxes.

– Panel raising. By running the edges of a panel vertically past a slightly tilted blade, you can raise them (where the edge is thinner than the middle) for classic looking classic-looking raised panel doors. Smaller panels can be cut using the standard rip fence as a guide; larger panels require a jig.

– Cutting coves and moldings. Using a special fence jig that guides the stock at an angle over the top of the saw blade, you can cut hollow shapes for moldings and trim. (Look online for additional information, including a video, on how to make cove cuts.)

– Shaping stock. Fitting a table saw with a molding head — a special blade with interchangeable cutters — allows you to cut many of the same profiles that you’d normally create with a shaper or router: beads, ogees, flutes, etc.

Choosing a Table Saw

All table saws are basically built the same: a motor powers an arbor-mounted saw blade; controls allow you to raise and/or tilt the blade above a table that supports the workpiece. Beyond that similarity, there are several different types of table saws to choose from, including cabinet, contractor, portable and benchtop. The particular type, make and model saw you choose will depend on various factors, including the saw’s overall size and capacity, how powerful it is, how portable it is, its features and, of course, how well it fits your tool budget. Particular models are better suited to some woodworkers’ needs more than others. For example, it doesn’t matter if your saw is super light and portable if it doesn’t have the power to handle the heavy stock you need to cut and, conversely, a powerful saw doesn’t help you if it’s too big and heavy to move around your shop that must serve double duty as your garage. A quick rundown on the four most common types of table saws will help you decide which one is best for you:

Cabinet Saw

The first choice of professional woodworkers and serious DIYers, the “cabinet” in a cabinet table saw refers to the boxy sheet-metal base that totally encloses the saw’s inner workings. These saws feature heavy-duty trunnions and saw arbors designed to keep their 10″ or 12″ saw blades (depending on the model) running rock solid even during the most punishing cutting situations. Power is supplied by a 2-, 3- or 5-hp induction motor (single or three-phase) controlled by a magnetic motor starter switch. Most models feature a large extension table to the right of a heavy cast-iron saw table and long rails that allow them to cut panels up to 52″ wide or more.

Don’t want to spend big bucks on a top-shelf cabinet saw? Some saws, including JET’s ProShop series, are hybrid models that incorporate some features of cabinet saws into more compact and affordable contractor style machines with partially enclosed bases.

Contractor Saw

The traditional choice of professional contractors and home workshops, the contractor saw includes about three-quarters of the features of a cabinet saw in a lighter and more affordable package.

You can spot this saw by its open-legged sheet metal stand and motor and bracket hanging off the back. Most models feature a 10″ blade, sturdy cast-iron or cast aluminum table and an extension table and fence rails long enough for rip cuts 24 to 30 inches wide or more. Most saws sport induction motors in the 1-1/2- to 2-1/2 hp range: ample enough to power a saw blade through wet construction lumber, thick sheet goods and hardwood stock.

Portable Jobsite and Benchtop Saws

Although lighter and more compact than other saws, portable jobsite and benchtop table saws are impressively powerful and full-featured. Most models use a standard 10″ saw blade and have the same depth-of-cut capacity (3-1/8″ at 90°) as full-sized saws. To get a portable’s weight down, heavy steel and iron parts are replaced by aluminum alloy castings and/or molded plastic. Weighty induction motors are replaced by the same kinds of universal motors used in portable power tools. Although noisier and not as powerful as induction motors, universal motors can handle most light- and medium-duty cutting jobs. Some portables have built-in folding stands with wheels that make them very easy to move around and stow when not in use. Benchtop models have short bases and must be mounted on a work table or stand before they’re ready to run.

Selecting Blades

Although just about any saw blade will cut wood, you’ll get better long-term performance with a good carbide-tooth combination or “general-purpose” blade, such as the Forrest Woodworker II. As their name implies, these blades can tackle most of the everyday cuts taken on a table saw. But for the best, cleanest, cuts, choose a saw blade that’s specifically designed for the kind of cut you’re taking.

Crosscut blades, such as Freud’s D1080X Diablo, employ a high number of teeth (60 to 80 on a 10″ blade) with an alternating-top-bevel (ATB) tooth grind to produce square- or miter-cut ends that look as though they were sanded smooth. In contrast, ripping blades have far fewer teeth: typically 24 to 30 on a 10″ saw blade. Each rip tooth has a flat grind and a high hook angle, allowing it to slice through wood fibers along the length of a board. Thin-kerf blades (combo, crosscut or rip) require less motor power to run and generate less sawdust, to boot.

For super-clean cuts in materials such as plywood, melamine, plastics and nonferrous metals, choose a saw blade specially designed for cutting that material.

Cutting wide grooves, dadoes and notches for joinery, such as box joints, calls for a dado blade. A stacking dado set sandwiches individual chipper blades between a pair of outer saw blades. You change the width of the groove/dado by using more or fewer chipper blades, with shims between them.

Table Saw Safety

First of all: never adjust a table saw or check a saw blade without first unplugging the saw. Using safe table saw operating practices (see the “Making the Cut” section of this article for more), push sticks and featherboards can help avoid unfortunate accidents — as can the following safety devices specifically designed for your saw:

– Blade guard. Most stock blade guards have a hinged, clear plastic hood that surrounds the saw blade, allowing stock to be fed while preventing fingers from straying into the blade. The guard also deflects sawdust and small cutoffs from being thrown up toward the operator. Unfortunately, stock blade guards can be fussy to set up and must be removed for operations such as dadoing, box joint cutting, etc. It’s best to employ shop-made guards during these special operations, or fit the saw with an over-arm-style guard: a clear box-like guard suspended above the saw blade.

– Splitters and anti-kickback pawls. Whether built into the blade guard or mounted separately, a splitter (aka riving knife) is a thin steel vein set right behind the blade. It’s designed to keep the saw kerf from closing up and binding the blade as stock exits the cut, thus preventing the saw motor from stalling and the work from being hurled back at the user. Usually mounted on either side of a blade’ guard’s splitter, anti-kickback pawls are spring-loaded fingers with serrated points that scrape along the top of the work as it’s fed through the cut. They are “one-way” devices that further prevent stock from kicking back.

– SawStop. One of the most significant developments in table saw safety is the safety system incorporated into all SawStop brand table saws. The blade on the saw is charged with a small electrical signal. If the user’s skin accidentally contacts the blade, the electrical signal change activates the saw’s safety system: An aluminum brake springs into the spinning blade, stopping its rotation in less than five milliseconds. The blade’s angular momentum drives it down beneath the saw table, removing the risk of subsequent contact, and power to the motor is shut off.

– Dust Collection. Although it doesn’t prevent saw blade-related accidents, using dust collection with a table saw is an important part of protecting yourself from respiratory-related ailments.

That’s especially important because most table saws throw dust around like crazy. Fortunately, most saws these days feature a dust port, which makes hooking the machine up to a portable or central dust collector a simple matter.

Prepare a Successful Cut

Before you take your first cut, it’s important to make sure that your table saw is clean, in good condition and properly adjusted. (You can find hints on how to make this happen in my table saw tune-up article, posted online.) A poorly set up and/or maintained saw is not only bound to be less accurate, but it also can be downright dangerous to use. For example, stock being ripped using an improperly aligned rip fence may kick back suddenly and cause injury. Also make sure your saw blade is sharp and running smoothly, without vibration or obvious wobbling.

Basic saw prep before any cut should begin with checking the angle and height of the saw blade. Once you’ve mounted and secured the best type of blade for the job at hand, install a throatplate that, ideally, has the narrowest opening that still allows the blade to spin freely. For regular 90˚ cuts, raise the saw blade up to near full height and check the blade’s squareness with a dependably accurate try square, placing the edge of the try square flat against the body of the blade. It helps to put a flashlight behind the square as you sight to see if there’s any light showing between the square and blade. If there is, adjust the angle using the table saw’s bevel (tilt) adjuster (reset the tilt stop if necessary).

For bevel cuts, tilt the saw blade to the desired angle and check it with a protractor, angle block or sliding bevel. After adjustments, it’s very important to reset the height of the saw blade so that only about 1/4″ of the blade protrudes above the thickness of the stock you intend to cut.

From there on, saw preparation depends on the kind of cut you intend to make. When ripping stock, set the distance between the face of the rip fence and edges of a saw blade tooth closest to the fence to the desired width of cut (your fence should already be adjusted so that it’s near parallel to the saw blade, with just a skosh of clearance at the back edge of the blade). If your fence has a built-in cursor and scale, make sure that it reads accurately with the blade you’re using; double-check with a rule if there’s any doubt. Lock the fence, and you’re ready to rip.

To prepare for crosscutting, set the angle of your miter gauge relative to the blade. As when checking blade squareness or tilt, use a try square or protractor/ bevel gauge to check the setting (your saw table’s miter slots should already be set parallel to the saw blade). Now is a good time to set the miter gauge’s built-in stop(s), so you can repeat oft-used angle settings (90°, 45°, etc.) more quickly in the future.

Tilt Right or Left?

Traditionally, table saws tilted their blades to the right, in the direction of the rip fence, as was viewed most practical for right-handed users. A few long-standing models, including the Powermatic model 66, tilt their blades to the left, which helps prevent stock from binding and kicking back during bevel cuts. Taking miter cuts with the blade tilted left is also advantageous, as marked cut lines are on top where you can see them. While many woodworkers still prefer a right-tilt saw, left-tilting saws are popular enough that many makes/models of cabinet, contractor and portable saws are now available as southpaws.

Making the Cut

Regardless of the kind of cut you’re making, make sure that the stock — and your hand and fingers — are clear of the blade before hitting the saw’s “On” switch. When taking a rip cut, make sure that one edge of the stock has been planed or jointed so that it’s arrow straight. Set that edge against the rip fence, start the saw, then use a push stick to feed the work into the spinning blade. Feed at an even rate of speed while keeping the work in firm contact with the fence. If your stock is narrow, it’s best to use a featherboard to keep the work pressed against the fence and down on the saw table. Whenever possible, stand to the side of the stock and blade rather than directly behind it. That way, if the workpiece is kicked back, it won’t strike you.

When ripping dense hardwoods or “problem” boards (wood with knots, twisting grain, etc.), the motor/blade may bog down as you cut. In this case, try easing off on your feed speed. If the work starts smoking or binds on the blade, it’s best to turn the saw off immediately, remove the board, then repeat the cut or switch to a different piece of lumber.

Large panels and sheet goods can also be ripped using the rip fence as a guide. If you cut a really big piece, make sure it’s well supported at both ends of the cut with infeed and outfeed tables or supports. You can also crosscut large panels as long as the work isn’t too long or the side that rides against the fence isn’t too narrow.

When using the miter gauge, make sure that the end of long workpieces won’t hang up on the rip fence before you begin. Unless your stock is hard to handle, you can use hand pressure to keep the work firmly planted against the face of the gauge (a piece of peel-and-stick sandpaper applied to the face helps keep the work steady during cutting). When you’re ready, slide the miter gauge and work slowly and evenly through the cut, making sure to keep both hands well clear of the blade. After the cut is complete, it’s safest to shut the saw off before removing the workpiece and cutoff scrap: never reach over a spinning saw blade! For long, large, or extra short workpieces, either clamp the work to the gauge’s head or use a table saw crosscutting sled or specialized jig.

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